2041 | Lessons from Antarctica
They say you look at a map differently, after experiencing the 7th continent. I’ve found this to be true: my eyes now start at the bottom of the atlas, Antarctica, and work their way up.
On the 2041 ClimateForce Antarctic Expedition (CFA22), I have had the privilege of joining 170 others from 37 nations to learn about our changing climate and its effect on Antarctica. This is all in the name of trying to increase awareness of the Antarctic Treaty, which was signed in 1941 and is designed to ensure Antarctica remains unexploited and is preserved as a land for peace and science. This treaty is coming up for revision in the year 2041.
We lost a few years of progress on our lives and goals during Covid. Whilst watching both my family and friends from opposite sides of the earth evacuate their homes due to wildfires, I felt completely hopeless and frustrated. Clearly watching social media doesn’t correlate to action.
I first encountered Robert Swan OBE, in the form of a Zoom presentation about leadership in adverse conditions. It was truly awakening. He is the first person to walk unaided to both the North and South Poles. Robert was given an ambitious 50-year objective to save Antarctica before the year 2041, by the famed Jacques Cousteau. An audacious and overwhelming goal by anyone’s standards. After listening to Rob explain what he achieved through leadership, organisation, and strength of character I knew we had a chance to help achieve this goal. I believe the threshold for change will widen by engaging and training world leaders, large corporations and young people so was inspired to join the expedition and began the not-insignificant task of fund-raising to make my dream a reality.
Creating deep international connections through shared education and experience is, at the best of times, a challenge, let alone 37 nations off the back of Covid. We all arrived in Ushuaia, Argentina, the southernmost city in the world, after six expedition date changes, shifting all 170 people’s plans, forms, insurance, flights, and schedules due to Covid. Climate Force Antarctica (CFA) 2019 became CFA22.
After landing in Ushuaia, Argentina, the southernmost city in the world, we were confronted by our impact on the planet as we collectively cleaned half a tonne of washed-up rubbish off the beach. Then we finally received the all clear, after several more nasal swabs, and boarded the HMS Ocean Victory to Antarctica.
To Antarctica
After passing through The Beagle Channel, and rounding Cape Horn, the southernmost tip of the Americas, we headed out into some of the most treacherous waters on the planet, the infamous Drakes Passage. We were blessed with a somewhat calm passage, despite experiencing six to nine-metre waves. The Antarctic Convergence we passed marks the true outer edge of Antarctica and is a crucial climactic boundary where colder Antarctic waters meet warmer northern waters creating a circulation system. Hundreds of kilometres from land, the majestic Wandering and Black Browed Albatross patrolled the seas.
After two days crossing the Drake, we heard “Land Ahoy!” and we had our first sighting of the Antarctic continent through the mist. That evening, the true majesty of Antarctica finally revealed itself. I will never forget, as I turned round the corner on the top deck, the most unforgettable scene I have ever witnessed, and a feeling I can’t explain. I had an overwhelming peace of mind and body, whilst being totally in awe and unable to fathom the enormity of the landscape before my eyes. An Antarctic sunset. The vastness, unpredictably and beauty of this pristine continent is truly humbling and inspiring.
Icebergs
We travelled south down to the Lemaire Channel, retracing the steps of the great explorers through a land completely foreign to every nation. The colossal mountains reached up either side of the channel, all of which were blanketed in ancient glaciers. To our left, the Antarctic Peninsula, where the mountains range continues south up to the polar plateau, which is roughly the same size as the Australia, 3000m (10,000 ft) above sea level. The continent is made of two major ice sheets, the West and the East, which averages 1.6 miles thick in ice. At its thickest, the ice sheet is 4800m deep.
As we were readying ourselves for a landing, we arrived at the Iceberg Graveyard. Shallower waters and prevailing winds push icebergs against the shore. There stood the most diverse and incredibly shaped cathedral sized icebergs, in formations that were akin to art. On the Zodiacs (small Rib Boats), we had our first look at sea ice. In amongst this was black ice, ice that has been compressed for 5 – 50,000 years, leaving little to no bubbles giving it a deceivingly black appearance in water. We landed at Base Brown, an Argentinian Research Base. Although there are British, Argentinian and Chilean territorial claims along the Antarctic Peninsula, due to the treaty no single nation owns any land in Antarctica and the only buildings we found still occupied were for scientific purposes. A reminder of how international cooperation can yield huge benefits for the planet.